At that time we had no idea that Emperor Clock Company was on the verge of adding a new kit to their line of kit furniture, a solid cherry gun cabinet. When we heard the news, we were on the phone instantly. We wanted to see if this classy gun cabinet was as good as the company's brochure made it out to be. As it turned out, our assembling and finishing the cabinet was a complete success.
We won't give you detailed step-by-step construction details here; the instruction booklet will provide that. But here's an overview of what to expect if you order this new kit and how to side-step potential snafus.
Like many of the better kit marketers, Emperor Clock Company takes pains in shipping materials post-haste and damage-free. The components arrived in two separate boxes stuffed heavily with shredded paper to protect wood parts from scratching or cracking in transit. All hardware was packed in a plastic bag and ready for sorting.
There's always a chance of missing or damaged parts. The company's instructions advise you to report any damaged or missing materials immediately. Our own damage report: One lower cabinet door coner was broken, an upper cabinet door curvature was chipped, and a drawer side was warped and had mis-cut dovetails. Missing parts included the felt lining for gun butt and barrel rests, plus the 19' extrusion (glass retainer). All parts were replaced within a week.
After final varnishing and waxing, a light buffing with a soft cloth accentuates the superb wood grain and satin finish. |
All wood arrived rough-sanded, but many hours of final sanding were required. Fine sandpaper and patience are key elements here. |
All wood needs to be final sanded before assembling, and this accounted for most of the labor. We decided to hand sand every wood section using a 3M sanding block with packaged strips of 120 sandpaper, followed by an extra' fine (600) aluminum oxide paper. By actual count, we sanded 29 wood sections. Though we didn't use a stopwatch, the job took about 22 hours. Keep in mind that we sanded both sides of each upper and lower side, both sides of the doors and the inside of the cabinet back. We didn't bother to sand the back components that aren't visible to the eye or are away from the touch of a hand.
During assembly, we found Emperor's instructions very good, but not faultless. Their "exploded view" drawings are excellent and leave no stone unturned. Beneath the exploded view, the clearly numbered and described parts and their measurements are listed to avoid any confusion. The 14-page manual is segmented into 12 steps, accompanied by "parts needed" and "supplies needed" guidelines. In general, the instructions are well organized and clearly written.
Assembling of the base cabinet was the most time-consuming task and was one of the few places where we found the instructions a bit misleading. For instance, instructions said to install the rear top rail before inserting the two center dividers, which hold the drawer guides. After glueing and clamping the top rail, we wondered if the rail would allow enough room to insert the dividers. Sure enough, no amount of juggling would get them into position. We immediately removed the rail before the glue set, inserted the dividers, then glued the top rail.
Another place where we nearly got hung up was in attaching the case and base backs. First, the instructions say that the case and base backs should be secured with brads. Next they say to install the gun butt rest to the top of the base top, then attach with screws driven through the bottom of the base top. However, if we had installed the base cabinet back, we couldn't have reached inside with drill. Entering the base from the front left too little room to maneuver.
What are the most important steps in construction? We'd rate test-fitting as the top priority. Before final glueing and clamping, we tried to figure out exactly how each part lined up. Several of the tenons for both the base and upper cabinets required light to moderate sanding to fit them into the rabbets and mortises. Careful attention to squaring is also important. We kept a padded hammer on hand and used it to tap framing into line before final clamping.
(Note: We were extra cautious to keep oozing glue to a minimum. First we laid a thin bead, sparingly, along a wood piece, then finger-spread the bead smooth. Bonding is quite secure, and we saved the agony of seeing glue dribbling out of a mortise or under a moulding and onto the sanded wood. We also kept a wet rag handy to wipe away excess glue.)
careful squaring gets top priority. Keep a damp cloth handy to wipe away excess glue. |
fitting before glue is applied. After glue has set, 1-1/4" screws provide a solid anchor. |
cinch to install with a Phillips screwdriver and a power drill. |
consuming, but the wood grain becomes more beautiful with each coat. |
After the entire cabinet was assembled, we reached the most enjoyable, satisfying step: applying the stain and varnish. To help get a more perfect finish, we beamed a spotlight against all wood surfaces to check for smudges and stains hard to see in standard lighting.
After removing all hardware, we applied a special paste stain and paste varnish. The paste stain was applied with a soft, old T-shirt. We let it set for a minute or two, then wiped away all excess stain. We allowed it to dry for four hours before applying the next coat. We stained one section of wood at a time, a single door or one side of the cabinet.
After three coats of stain covered the entire cabinet, we then applied three coats of varnish, using the same procedure. There's no question that this project is within the ability of any amateur do-it-yourselfer with basic tools, a love for fine furniture and adequate patience. Building this gun cabinet requires absolutely no specialized tools. As the instructions recommend, we used a 3/8" power drill, Phillips screwdriver, carpenter's square, hammer and pipe wood clamps. More importantly, the price of $249.50 is a bargain when you consider the finished cabinet's quality and sturdy structure. For more information on the gun cabinet kit, write to Emperor Clock Company, Dept. FH, Emperor Industrial Park, Fairhope, Ala. 36532 - Ray Lorenz.
Page 6 and 14 SEPTEMBER 1980/THE FAMILY HANDYMAN